Saturday, May 22, 2010

Mama's Fish Head Soup ("hee-tao tung")



[ts]
The story of...
Me and my fish head.
Me and my tantrum.


Our mother's fish head soup is quite popular with a lot of people. In fact, different individuals or families usually make a special request that she make this soup. One such day, I took the opportunity of shadowing her and finally acquiring her recipe.

Our mother uses ling cod head for her soup. She also always asks the fishmonger to clean/cut up the fish head for her. Hence, on the day of my shadowing, the fish head was already in undecipherable parts.

I took all the necessary photographs for this dish. However, I could not bring myself to post this without a picture of a COMPLETE fish head.

My plan: to go to the supermarket and take a photo of the head there.

Quite a number of days after our mother made the soup, JS and I walked into the supermarket. I saw one ling cod head remaining on display. I remembered the camera in the car, so I ran back to get it. Upon my return, JS was nowhere near the fish display. Hence, I walked around the store until I found her. I needed the moral support, see.

However, she refused to go with me to the fish display!

I finally worked my way back there (alone) and saw a couple of ladies ordering that final fish head, with the fishmonger proceeding to CHOP THAT HEAD UP!

I was too late!

We needed a few more things, so JS and I wandered around the store for a bit. Also, I was hoping that they would bring out more ling cod heads to replenish their display, thinking that perhaps they wanted to FIFO their fish heads (first in, first out); that is, they wanted that final one to be sold before bringing out the new ones.

As we passed by the fish display, I saw that they did indeed replenish the display with at least half a dozen heads!

Again, JS made her exit and refused to lend moral support. So I proceeded to ask the fishmonger to turn over one head (they were on the display "face down") and then asked if I could take a picture.

No.

"But we've bought several before!" -- I said softly, knowing that I had already been defeated.

I felt very dejected and walked out of the store limply.

[js]
In my defense, I was in the produce section, trying to remember items that we needed to pick up!

[ts]Exiting the store and entering the car, I called my mother and had a very fruitless and whiny conversation about when she thought she would make fish head soup again.

"Not very soon."

I was in a very pouty mood. Wait, let me emphasize this: I was very sullen, sulky and sour, crabby, cranky and crotchety.

I was in a very pouty mood.

JS took matters into her own hands and, like yielding to a toddler's temper tantrum, drove us to the supermarket beside this supermarket (which are both, oddly enough, owned by the same company!) with the intention of purchasing one ling cod head.

Initially, what stopped us from buying a ling cod head was the cost. That is, there's no justification for buying a fish head for the sole purpose of taking its photograph!

But that's what we ended up doing.

I won!
(Sheepish teehee.)

P.S.
We did make fish head soup again with this new head, but that's a post for another time.

So, ladies and gentlemen, without further ado, I present to you,
Mr. Ling Cod Head!

Warning: Gratuitous head shots up ahead.



He was HUGE!
This here container is a 9" by 13" pyrex baking pan.



This head was approximately 3.5 pounds.
Total cost: $21-something!

Nice gills


Mr. Ling Cod Head was actually just half a head. He was split down the middle, see!

OK, now that I've gotten that out of my system, let's proceed with the rest of the recipe!

(Well, I did have to get my money's worth in terms of photographs. I did spend $21 dollars!)

Mama's Fish Head Soup("hee-tao tung" in Fukien/Hokkien)

This recipe has a very large yield. My mother is used to making this soup for a large number of people.

Serves 10 to 20 people.
(Mind you, that's the number of people, not the number of servings. We assume that each person will have more than 1 serving, around 2 to 3.)

Ingredient quantities can be halved quite easily. Also, you can adjust each ingredient according to your taste.

INGREDIENTS

8 liters water (approximate)
1 ling cod head
6 ling cod steaks

The steaks aren't necessary. Mama likes the soup to have extra fish meat is all.

Here is the fish head in undecipherable parts. (And yes, it is wise to have the fishmonger cut up the head. Mr. Ling Cod Head and I had a little fight before I was able to chop him up and remove his gills.)

A note:
When our mother made her soup, the fish head she bought was EVEN LARGER THAN THE ONE I BOUGHT. She said the cost came to about $50!!!

ginger: 3-inch piece, sliced
garlic: 10-12 cloves
leeks: 3 (include the green part)
green onions: 5



Szechuan Vegetable: 1 cup
These are also called "preserved radish" (like the one used in Mama's giniling version 3).


Before using, Mama says to soak these in water for a few minutes (10 minutes, let's say) and then rinse. (More info here and here.)

satay: 6 tablespoons
The satay gives a certain je ne sais quoi flavor in the soup, so it shouldn't be too strong. Just a hint will do. This is the brand we have at home.


Tianjin Preserved Vegetable: 1/4 cup
These are a type of preserved cabbage, I believe. It comes in a cool little container like the one below. (More info here)


tofu (regular/medium firm): 2 packages of 700g each

Napa cabbage: 1 huge head (or 2 to 3 small heads)


Look at the yield of that napa!

METHOD

Put the water into a big pot and bring to a boil. When it has come up to the boil, turn heat down and keep water hot.

In the meantime, in a large saute pan, pan-fry the fish pieces. They don't have to be too brown. This is to add more flavor and also help the fish not to disintegrate too easily in the soup.

Remove fish pieces and set aside.

Next, saute the ginger until slightly browned, then add garlic. Next, add the leeks, green onions, rinsed Szechuan vegetable, satay and Tianjin preserved vegetable.


Remove ginger.
Our mother likes to remove the ginger so as not to have an overpowering ginger flavor in the soup. However, if you like ginger, feel free to leave the pieces in.

Put the sauteed aromatics and flavorings into the boiling/simmering water. Add the fish. Try to be gentle so as not to break apart the fish pieces.


Bring back up to a boil then turn down the heat to simmer, covered. Do not stir too much. Simmer for approximately 15-30 minutes.


The tofu and napa cabbage are added towards the end.

Mama likes the tofu to absorb the flavors, so she adds them first. Again, be gentle when placing the tofu into the soup. Simmer the soup, covered, for another 15 minutes.

Then, add the cabbage and cover once again, until the cabbage is the tenderness you desire.
(In this specific case, since our pot was very full, she braised the cabbage in a separate pot with some of the broth of the soup.)

Adjust seasoning.



And there you go, a fish soup just like Mama's. This soup is one of those Asian-types that are, in the words of those dubbed judges in the Japanese Iron Chef, "subtle, yet profound."

Korean Soybean Sprouts Pancake (Kongnamul Jeon)




[ts]
Reaction upon learning that the Weekend Wokking ingredient was to be SPROUTS:

"Sprouts? Sprouts?!! What can we do with sprouts?!"

Of course, what I pictured in my mind was those sprouts usually put into vegetarian sandwiches (alfalfa and whatnot). We were drawing a blank with those.

Then, we considered pea shoots. But, are they still considered sprouts? I mean, they seem to have gone beyond sprouts, being shoots.

It's been a crazy, tiring, weird week and I don't think JS and I could have mustered enough energy to think of and make a sprouty dish.

But, fortunately, not too long ago, we had soybean sprouts. We've been more or less having them as Korean-style kongnamul, or variations thereof. That time, we wanted to make something else, something we've never made before, something "fancier."

Enter the jeon.



[ts]
I was thumbing through The Best Recipes in the World and came across the recipe for "pajon" (Korean crispy vegetable pancake). I decided to make a soybean sprouts version.

I'm calling them Kongnamul Jeon, but if I am inadvertantly butchering the Korean language, please let me know!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeon_(food)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kongnamul

Kongnamul Jeon Batter


[ts]The base of the batter was the mixture of flour, glutinous rice flour, eggs and water. I then added green onions, soybean sprouts and kimchi. I seasoned with salt and sesame oil.



[ts]
I cooked them like regular pancakes: pouring the batter onto the pan, then waiting until the bottom is golden brown and the pancake cooked halfway up the bottom before flipping. Mine were small palm-sized pancakes.

It was simple and easy!

Condiments


[ts]
Of course, we had additional kimchi.



[ts]
On the left is some sesame oil with coarse salt, and on the right is a soy sauce-based dipping sauce. That has soy sauce, a touch of rice wine vinegar, a little water and a pinch of sugar.



[ts]
I could have used more kimchi in the pancake itself for a punchier finish, but overall, this was something that was very nice indeed. The glutinous rice flour added nice "spring" and gumminess, which was a nice texture contrast with the crunchy soybean sprouts.

We erred on the side of caution with the seasonings, because we did not want it to be too spicy or salty. I figure each could make each pancake to his or her specifications, with the condiments available.

This is definitely another way to enjoy soybean sprouts (or any other vegetable, for that matter) for those times when we don't feel too lazy for batch-cookery.

eatingclub vancouver Korean
Korean Sprouts & Spicy Cold Cucumber Salad
Kimchi Fried Rice, an addiction
Korean Soybean Sprouts Pancake (Kongnamul Jeon)
Korean Pork Bulgogi (with Muu Namul, Kong Namul)
Korean Roast Salmon
Korean Fried Chicken
Korean Sweet Potatoes with Yangnyeom Sauce
Japchae / Jap Chae (Korean Glass Noodles with Vegetables)

eatingclub vancouver Weekend Wokking posts:
Ravioli "Caprese": Tomato, Basil, Bocconcini
Eggplant "Clafouti"
Bibingka
Pumpkin Congee w/ Pumpkin "Beignets" & Sesame-Roasted Pumpkin Seeds
Chicken, Broccoli and Cheese w/ Pipián Verde
Adobo Mushroom Tart
Duck and Orange Crêpes with Orange-White Wine Sauce
Almond Eggplant "Bisteeya" (Bastilla)
"Mashed Potato Beef Burger" (Red-skinned Potato Salad in Taiwanese Sacha Cheeseburger)
Korean Soybean Sprouts Pancake (Kongnamul Jeon)
Lemon Chamomile Tiramisu
Cilantro Horchata
Strawberry Cilantro Salsa, on Grilled Flank Steak
Duck Enchiladas with Chipotle Peanut Salsa
Clear Oxtail Soup with Corn, Cabbage and Potatoes
Beijing Pickled Cabbage
Salsa Romesco ("Queen of the Catalan Sauces!")
Aguadito de Pollo (Peruvian Chicken Soup)
Bangus Belly à la Bistek (Milkfish Belly with Onions, Calamansi and Soy Sauce)
White Pork with Garlic Sauce, Two Ways (蒜泥白肉)
Mr. Zheng's Soupy Tomatoes and Eggs with Tofu (蕃茄雞蛋跟豆腐)
Steamed Fish and Tofu with Chinese Black Beans

Recipe

Korean Soybean Sprouts Pancake (Kongnamul Jeon)
adapted from the Pajon (Crisp Vegetable Pancake) recipe in The Best Recipes in the World
Serves 6 to 8, as a side dish

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup glutinous rice flour
2 eggs, beaten
1 Tbsp oil, plus more for frying
1 1/2 cups water
5 (or 1 bunch) green onions, sliced into thin strips
2 pounds soybean sprouts (between 1 to 2 pounds)
1 cup kimchi, chopped
sesame oil, to taste
salt, to taste

Mix the flours, eggs and oil with the water to form a smooth batter. Set aside while prepping the green onions, sprouts and kimchi. Combine the batter with the vegetables, kimchi, sesame oil and salt. The mixture will look chockful of sprouts, and that is all right.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add oil to coat the pan and heat until hot. Ladle batter into the pan, spreading each pancake flat. Make the pancakes any size you wish. Let the pancakes cook until the bottom is golden brown and each pancake is cooked halfway up from the bottom. Flip each pancake and finish cooking on the second side.

Repeat as necessary until you've used up all the batter.

Serve with various condiments, such as Sesame Oil with Coarse Salt, Dipping Soy Sauce, or kimchi.

Sesame Oil with Coarse Salt
In your condiment dish, add a generous amount of coarse salt and pour sesame oil to cover.

Dipping Soy Sauce
In your condiment dish, add soy sauce, a splash of rice wine vinegar, a little water, and a pinch of sugar (not to make it sweet, but to balance the salt and acid). Adjust according to taste. Add chopped chile peppers or chile flakes, if desired.

Korean Sweet Potatoes with Yangnyeom Sauce



[ts]
We still had some Yangnyeom Sauce leftover from our Korean Fried Chicken, so we thought to glaze some sweet potatoes.

Simply cook some peeled and cut sweet potatoes -- we steamed ours, but one can easily roast or boil them -- and then toss in Yangnyeom Sauce.



[ts]
This was finger-lickin' good -- that is, if you were like me and just grabbed a piece with your fingers every time you passed by the bowl.

In fact, JS liked the sauce better on the sweet potatoes than on the fried chicken! We definitely didn't make enough, having cooked only five sweet potatoes.


For Yangnyeom Sauce recipe, visit the ZenKimchi: Korean Food Journal post:
The Great Korean Fried Chicken Recipe (Experiment)

Korean Spicy Pork Bulgogi (with Muu Namul and Kong Namul)



[js]
On the day I went home with a pork loin roast, I had no idea what to do with it. Normally I wouldn't pick up such a big hunk of pig, and I wasn't drunk or anything like that, but sometimes, its nice pink roundness can be enticing.


the roast cut in half, to fit on the cutting board

[js]
I had done straight pork roasts before, but it always seemed like we end up with more meat than when we started. It didn't matter what kind of flavours I bathe the roast in and baste on it -- it really was all over except for the leftovers.

Maybe there is something to the Confucian dictum that all food must be served to the table already bite-sized. Supposedly, eating smaller pieces of food promotes geniality and civility among people, them not needing to brandish knives and other sharp implements to cut up food.

Sliced Pork


[js]
I asked TS to slice the roast into thin slices and seeing the meat fanned out beautifully like that made me think of spicy pork bulgogi.

At first, I only had half of the roast cut into slices. But they looked so pretty that I asked TS to slice up the rest of it.

[ts]
Funny story. Mama came around while I was slicing the pork and said something to the effect of, "Oh, they're so pretty. I like!"

I guess we are the type of people who find things like this attractive. JS was correct about the pork's enticing "nice pink roundness"!

We ended up with seven pounds of sliced pork.

The Marinade


[js]
I proceeded to cut up some green onions, onions, garlic, apple for my marinade. These will go with soy sauce, sesame oil, brown sugar, some apple cider vinegar, and Korean red pepper paste.
Seeing the blender already out, I made a mistake of grabbing it instead of the food processor so my marinade was smoother than I had hoped. I added Korean red pepper flakes, as well as carrots and more green onions and onions to the pork after adding it my marinade.

The pork slices were marinated overnight in the fridge.

Grilling

bulgogi on top; gatecrashing Philippine pork "BBQ" on the bottom

[js]
On the day we were supposed to have our spicy pork bulgogi Korean barbecue, as you can see, some Philippine pork barbecue skewers gatecrashed the party!


The Gatecrashers

Somebody in our family threw a semi-hissy fit because of a request for Philippine pork barbecue skewers being unheeded for more than a week now.

To remedy the situation, we had to buy more meat, buy an electric slicer(!), then fast-tracked the whole thing to make the Philippine pork barbecue skewers in time for dinner.
Grilled Version


[js]
It was just as well, because I needed to finetune my spicy pork bulgogi a tad. I mean, the whole thing was okay but not as spicy as I would have liked. Also, the pork loin was a bit too lean for my taste. Pork shoulder would have been my preferred cut of meat for this one. I lacked the proper tools and implements to grill my spicy pork bulgogi: some of the pieces kept falling through the grates.

Our grilled version seemed less "saucy" than other bulgogi I've seen.

Pan-fried Version


[js]And of course, everybody just kept going for the Philippine pork barbecue skewers!

I couldn't focus on the bulgogi because people were demanding more and more skewers. I finally decided to just char some of the pieces on the grill and have TS pan-fry the rest of the bulgogi so I can concentrate on the skewers.

The pan-fried version seemed "saucier", perhaps since the juices collected in the pan instead of falling through the grates of the grill.

So please consider the recipe below Spicy Pork Bulgogi Version 1, which is not bad at all (it was quite good), and it will be perfected sometime in the near future.

Muu Namul


[ts]
We couldn't very well have Korean food without at least a couple of banchan. Since we had daikon in the fridge, we decided to make use of it.

I actually wanted thin julienne of daikon radish, but I was too lazy to slice it up by hand, so I decided to use the grater attachment in the food processor.

Mistake!

As you can see, these really did look like grated radish, not at all like nice thin strips.

A lesson for the kiddies: always use the right tool for the job, even if the right tool is a knife and your own hard work!

I simply cooked the julienned grated radish with some garlic (see the big hunk of grated garlic), sesame oil, salt & pepper, a touch of sugar (for balance), and a generous sprinkling of sesame seeds. I garnished with some Korean red pepper flakes.

Kong Namul


[ts]
This dish has turned out to be a family favorite and we've made it numerous times. (Previous blog post about kongnamul here.)

The Meal


[ts]
We ate our pork bulgogi with a bit of plain rice, wrapped with a piece of romaine lettuce. It was accompanied by muu namul and kong namul.

[js]
I think it would be more correct to say that we ate our pork bulgogi with a few skewers of Philippine pork barbecue on the side. ;)



[js]
The recipe below reflects my desire to have the pork bulgogi more juicy and more spicy. I've also scaled down the recipe to reflect a smaller portion of pork.
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